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 Post subject: Scratch plate or not ?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 2:50 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Hi

Just interested in any thoughts before i stick on a scratch plate on my dreadnought.

I have noticed alot of handmade guitars dont put a scratchplate on

Is this for aesthetical reasons or does it somehow affect the soundboard responsiveness

Will probably stick mine on anyway as i like the look

But just wondering

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 3:09 pm 
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I think it just depends on the player. Some people are pretty hard with picks and or finger nails flailing around all over the place others are very gentle. Personally I like them and if aesthetics is an issue I just use a clear one.



These users thanked the author jfmckenna for the post: Cablepuller (Thu Mar 19, 2015 4:36 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 3:29 pm 
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I do, I use clear ones...



These users thanked the author meddlingfool for the post: Cablepuller (Thu Mar 19, 2015 4:36 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 3:49 pm 
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Clear and thin...



These users thanked the author Michaeldc for the post: Cablepuller (Thu Mar 19, 2015 4:36 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 4:23 pm 
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On a dreadnaught I would use one. Sooner or later you will run into a "player" who likes to flail away on the guitar to show how loud he can make it. He may also be wearing an oversized belt buckle, and he may take offence when you ask him to cover or remove it.



These users thanked the author Clay S. for the post: Cablepuller (Thu Mar 19, 2015 4:36 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 5:47 pm 
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I will put one on if player wants. I like the look without

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 7:42 pm 
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Clear one here too. They're almost invisible when done well.
IMO though, on a dreadnaught, I'd use a standard faux tortoise shell pickguard. It keeps with the traditional theme of the instrument.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 8:55 pm 
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I think with the use of the super hard urethane finishes, pick guards were no longer needed. Some liked the 'new' look so a trend developed. Us who used softer finishes started using clear so we could trend along with them. I still like the look of a guard but I do tend to use clear anyway.

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These users thanked the author Joe Beaver for the post: Cablepuller (Fri Mar 20, 2015 1:41 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 1:09 am 
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I think scratch plates are still needed. I've seen the way some people pick their guitars and think that the scratch plate must go all the way to the soundhole... I've seen lots of well used guitars with damage concentrated in that area. However some players may think it will affect sound (it does, place your hand next to the soundhole when you strum, and now do it without your hand there, and there's a difference). Even placing a tuner on the side of the soundhole can affect sound as well...

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These users thanked the author Tai Fu for the post: Cablepuller (Fri Mar 20, 2015 1:42 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 12:02 pm 
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I've used clear 5mm thick pick guards for a long time. With darker wood tops, like koa, they look O.K., and even not too bad on spruce. However, on redwood, I have limited success getting them to look good. Air bubbles really stand out. Are any of you floating them on with soap and water and what is your process for doing that? Interesting side note. I saw a 30 year old guitar of mine awhile back that belonged to a heavy smoker, all varieties of smoke I think. I'm convinced that the yellowing was intensified by the smoke, because my lacquer does not normally yellow that much just from age.The spruce top had become a dark yellow color , but under the clear pick guard the spruce was as white as the day it was put on. Very bizarre look!

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These users thanked the author Pegasusguitars for the post (total 2): Pmaj7 (Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:58 pm) • Cablepuller (Fri Mar 20, 2015 12:11 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 4:30 pm 
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5 mm? Maybe a typo. no?
I float my clear pickguards, pretty much like SM instructions, except I use an eraser with a tapered end instead of a squeegee.
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Pickguards/Self-Adhesive_Clear_Mylar_Plastic.html
(I have tried it both with a tiny drop of liquid soap in the water and with the windex. Both work, don't see much difference if any, but think the windex is a better idea FWIW)

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 2:02 am 
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Colin,
Yes, 5mm would be a bit weird! Thanks for the reply. I followed that Stew Mac link. Have not tried the Windex, but will next time. I think my wife Anne and I stopped by to see you a couple of years ago, in 2011. You were pushed for time, but spent some with us anyway. Your name is not in her journal, and I'm bad with names, but I do believe it was you. Hope all is well.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 2:13 am 
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Pegasusguitars wrote:
Colin,
Yes, 5mm would be a bit weird! Thanks for the reply. I followed that Stew Mac link. Have not tried the Windex, but will next time. I think my wife Anne and I stopped by to see you a couple of years ago, in 2011. You were pushed for time, but spent some with us anyway. Your name is not in her journal, and I'm bad with names, but I do believe it was you. Hope all is well.

Hi Bob, I don't think it was me.


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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 12:37 pm 
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Oh well. That visit will remain a mystery. Thanks for the responses Colin.-Bob

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“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso


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